Steadicam Gimbal Cleaning

Here is an almost 50 minute video walkthrough of why we need to clean gimbals, and how to do it. This goes into far more depth than the original post below, but I will keep the original post below for reference, in case something in it is useful. Please contact me with any questions, and as always, this content is for educational purposes only, and should be referenced against any manufacturer guidance.

Archived old version of this page:

As for cleaner, I am not a fan of Acetone. I use a residue-free contact cleaner spray. I find that the spray action helps wash the gimbal clean, and contact cleaner is specifically designed as a degreaser and will wash out the oil from a bearing quite well. I spray out the gimbal bearing while spinning it at a relatively slow speed for 10-20 seconds (or until the spray makes my hands so cold that I have to stop!), and then dry the bearing between kimwipes. From that point on, I treat the bearing with basic clean room techniques - covering it with a kimwipe or other lint-free cloth (or even a clean piece of Tupperware) to prevent dust ingress at any moment that I’m not working on it directly. I bring the bearing back up to temperature using the heat of my hands, dry it again, and then use a single absolutely tiny drop of Triflow or other lubricant (I also have had great success with Mobil Velocite 6, a machine tool spindle oil for grinders, but it’s $150/gallon), and spin it gently until the sound of the bearing decreases and becomes consistent. Note - I do not add any more than that one drop of oil. The bearing, especially as one of Tiffen’s bearings, will still have some noise to it when lubricated in this minimal way, but that is in my experience normal. We are definitely starving the gimbal bearing of lubrication by only using one drop, but that is a trade off we make in the name of ultimate performance. 

Now test the bearing. If you hold the inner race still and give the outer race a spin, it should spin effortlessly and gently come to a stop in about a count of 3-5 seconds (depending on how fast you count). If it abruptly comes to a stop, or feels “notchy”, clean it again, as there is likely some debris in the bearing. If repeated cleanings do not solve a “notchy” or grinding feeling, the bearing may be damaged. Again, some noise or mild rumble is normal, but a prominent “click” or grabbing feeling in the bearing is not. If the bearing won’t spin up when giving it a flick, is it likely over lubricated. Clean it out and try again. This is definitely a procedure that may have to be redone at first, until you finally get a feel for how little lubricant you need.

At this point, once you’re confident that you have the right amount of oil in the bearing, cover the bearing again, and use the contact cleaner on a paper towel or kimwipe to clean the pan case bearing housing, and to spray off the inner piece that the pan bearing rides on as well. (Both unanodized surfaces) also clean the threads that the gimbal assembles with. I have found significant gunk and oil in those threads which could migrate into your gimbal. Then use a finger with some oil on it to wipe down the bearing housings, and put a small amount of drops of oil into the threads. You can be a bit more generous in the threads, as they’ll retain oil. Always be mindful of dust and particles, as they can cause parts to stick together in assembly. Then reassemble the gimbal, and re-test.